Kingpin removal

[flyboy2610]

I have the brakes off and the backing plate removed.
All that's attached to the I-beam end is the spindle.
I have both retaining caps off and the retaining bolt out.
Is there a good way to remove the kingpins at home or should I remove the I-beam and take it to a shop? I paln to remove the I-beams anyway to clean them up, paint them and replace all the bushings.
I tried a big punch and a 2 pound sledge. Nada.

[wekelm]

The manual says to drive them out top to bottom, and put them back in the same way. Thats how I did mine. However if your using the brass bushing you'll need to have them pressed in and milled to fit the new king pins. So it wouldn't hurt to take the I-beams to a shop

[flyboy2610]

I do plan to install brass bushings. They last longer. No sense doing this more often than I have to!
I'll probably take them to a shop, then. I didn't know about having the bushings machined to fi the new kingpins.
Thanks for the reply!

[wt4speed#2]

You can take them with the spindle attached to the axle but it is not necessary for the operation they are going to perform as the bushings drive into the spindle , and from experience {managed front end shop} they would rather see you show up with just spindles and king pin kit ,actually just the bushings and one {1}pin to size ream bushings after installation. Unless you buy the kits at same shop that is going to install and ream bushings,I recommend leaving all erxtra stuff at your shop. If you have them press out the pins and bushings the probably will remove them with out a hitch but take your wallet cause more than likely the will charge an extra fee for the bulky awkwardness of having to chuck them up to press pins out in addition to installing and reaming spindle bushings.Better figure upwards of a "C" for complete operation .

Around here 1 ton and down run about $30.00 to do both spindles,remove old bushings unless they are nylon,burn off spindles and ream to fit pins, 2 1/2 ton thur class eight around $50.00 , every thing else up to,20k front axles runs about $75.00 up

If you will spray them with some penetrating oil or better yet clean out top of pin area and fill with good ole ATF and let sit for a bit , then you need a bigger hammer,I would wack'em with less than an 8"iron". Spin your spindle around and wack the back side of the axle eye a good lick 3 or 4 times then repeat on front side of axle eye, do this on both sides , you may have to repeat it several times but I promise you they will come out.Heck may have some one hold a smaller hammer say that 2 lb against the opposite side of the spindle your working on for reverberation

You'll get a good work out and save 60-70% of that "C" note

If you have any question I'll pm you with my cell and feel free to call me

Thanks
Tony B

[Pro-Street/StateTk]

Are you planning on a disc swap?

On my 65 disc brake swap I had already removed the king pins from my
donor ( 78 ) 150 they came out easy because the king pins had been
replaced, my 65 the king pins did not want to move at all, so not wanting
the kingpin to win the FIGHT, I cut right across the bottom of the spindle,
being careful not to cut into the( I beams ) GO SLOW! stop before you get
all the way though and you can whack it with a chisle and hammer in the
slot you cut not to hard I used a 4 inch grinder with a cut off thin wheel! 15 MINUTES later the top and the bottom of the spindel will ( fall off ). Now you are looking a the I beam with the king pin sticking out , spray with something like PB blaster make sure you spray were the bolt retains the king pin,Spray the hole good and let it sit over night tie walmart bags over the end (you sure dont need any more rust in there) go out the next day and spray the kingpins and the hole again and start getting ready to beat them with a 5 pound hammer, BFH. Now before you start beating slip a washer that fits the king pin over the king pin, I took a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum about 4x4 square, place on top of king pin and hold with channel locks and start pounding, I do know what your thinking, my king pin will MUSHROOM! Your right It will, but when that king pin starts moving SOUTH it will be worth it! Now with when you beat that pin about within about 3/8 of an inch of the washer ( STOP ) now take a dremel with a small grinding disc and grind the MUSHROOM part down a little smaller than the hole in your washer I used the washer so I would not grind on the I beam at all, when the washer slides off, drop it back on the king pin so you don't grind on the I beam any, and go ahead and take a little more off, just to be sure that it will still go though the I beam loose, spray it some more and the retaining bolt hole, leave the washer on and I found a small round aluminum piece of round stock, it happen to have a threaded hole in it where I installed a small bolt, it made for a more solid whack with BFH. I did hold it with channel locks. Stay square on the pin you can slip a small piece of rubber hose over the drift so it wont mess up I beams, if it keeps going hard spray again and again!


I hope this TIP/ TRICK will help some one out there!


P.S only do this if you don't want your old spindles!

Like dad used to say Hell or High water I'm going to finish it!

[flyboy2610]

Thanks, but I plan on keeping the drums.
For a daily driver they'll do fine. I'm just going to take the entire I-beam off and have the kingpins replaced and the bushings reamed at the same time.

[FORDification]

I'd have to suggest just taking the I-beam/spindle assemblies to the machine shop to have the work done. It's not that expensive and will save you a lot of time and trouble. Even if you get the kingpins out by yourself, as mentioned above you're still going to have to get the bushings reamed out by them...so just save yourself the hassle and let somebody with the proper tools worry about it.

Too bad your truck wasn't an F250. The '67 I recently bought has a brand new front end (kingpins, bushings, springs, etc.) but I have no use for it. I was planning on saving the springs, but I have no use for a 3/4-ton drum-brake front end, even if it IS rebuilt.

[flyboy2610]

The real factor for me in keeping the drums is that I really dont plan to do heavy hauling with an F100, or do any serious towing.
The brakes on these trucks are the self energizing design, which basically means that the spinning brake drum tries to 'grab' onto the brake shoes and force it into the drum. Much more efficient than the common leading-trailing design found on most cars.
So for what I plan to do with it, and given the duo servo, self energizing design of the brakes, I just can't justify the cost of switching to discs.
Besides, I already have all the parts to redo the drum brakes.